Serums and creams that promise to turn back the clock and downplay your skin’s imperfections come in hundreds of formulations, and finding the right one can get tricky (not to mention pricey!). However, there’s one ingredient that skin docs truly swear by. Yep, we’re talking about retinol: Your skin’s number one wrinkle-diminishing wingman. But the stuff isn’t magic in a bottle. It comes in a variety of forms and can have various effects (good and bad) on different skin types. Here’s what you need to know before you try it for yourself.
Retinol is a form of retinoid, a derivative of vitamin A. It’s commonly used to give your skin a healthy boost by minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing texture, and diminishing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. “Unfortunately as you age, the skin cells stop maturing and they tend to pile up,” says Doris Day, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in laser, cosmetic, and surgical dermatology in New York City. “It works on a molecular level to normalize cell turnover.” Basically, it tells your cells to renew themselves regularly again. Topical retinoids, found in prescription and over-the-counter formulas, work to make the outermost skin layers thinner and flatter.
Retinoids are also added to some acne products, says Day. Because they work to unclog blocked pores and prevent further build-up, retinoids open the way for acne-fighting ingredients, helping eliminate the roots of the breakout.
Not all retinoids are created equal. Retin-A (a prescribed retinoid also known as Tretinoin) is much stronger than retinol, which is often found in smaller doses in drugstore beauty creams. These make your skin work an extra step to convert retinol to retinoic acid, the active ingredient in prescription retinoids, says Day.
If you’re looking for fast results, talking to your derm about a prescription may be the way to go, but if your skin is unfamiliar with the strong stuff, starting with gentle, drugstore versions is often a safer route. “Sometimes I’ll have patients use the prescription-based ones twice a week and over-the-counter forms the rest of the week,” says Day. Non-prescription versions can also add other ingredients into the mix (like caffeine and peptides) that may enhance retinol’s effects. We like RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Night Cream ($20, drugstore.com).
While retinol may come in different forms, “they absolutely work the same,” says Francesca Fusco, M.D., a medical and cosmetic dermatologist in New York. It just may take a little longer to see results with drugstore products than prescription ones. The key is starting slow. “If you want to do it on your own, buy something over the counter, use it very sparingly, and begin by using it only two to three times a week,” says Fusco. “If you’re okay and don’t get too red and irritated, increase it gradually until you can tolerate it every night.”
Fusco recommends finding a formula that states whether it’s best for oily or sensitive skin and matching it to your skin type to get the best results. Start with applying one to two pea-sized amounts before bed, being careful to avoid the corners or your eyes, nose, and mouth, as well as the upper eyelids. “Those areas are more sensitive, and [retinol] tends to pool into the corners or creases, which can cause flaky or cracked skin,” says Fusco.
Retin-A and retinol can leave you looking radiant when applied properly, but make sure to keep these factors in mind to avoid skin-harming outcomes.
Be Cautious…
After cleansing or exfoliating. “The act of washing your face can be a little irritating, so wait about 10 minutes before applying any retinol forms,” says Fusco.
In the sun. As retinol normalizes the outer layer of your skin, it can potentially sensitize it to the sun. “When you’re very fair-skinned, you rely on that outer layer as some form of sun protection,” says Day. “That more youthful skin will be much more sun sensitive.” If you burn easily, stick to applying your cream at night.
Give Retinol a Break…
When your skin gets angry. Your skin can commonly become red, dry, flaky, and irritated when it’s not used to retinol or if you’ve applied too much of it. “If irritation occurs, stop using and try an over-the-counter cortisone cream for a few days,” says Day. “Once the irritation resolves, restart but use very little, and start by using it every second or third evening and slowly build up. You can also try using a milder one or combining an over-the-counter one with a prescription strength one.”
If you’re using acne meds. Although retinol is sometimes incorporated into acne products, mixing the two as separate treatments can be a major mistake. “The most important thing is not to combine it with most acne meds that have a salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or alpha hydroxy acid in it,” says Fusco. The combo can diminish the results you’re looking for (clear, glowing skin) and cause more irritation, redness, and even burning.
Before a wax. Fusco recommends cutting off retinol use at least a week before any facial waxing. “The skin is fragile, it’s sensitive, and the retinol is removing several layers of your epidermis, so it’s not as thick as it used to be,” she says. “Stop using [retinol] a good period of time before waxing, or the waxing will take your skin off.”
The bottom line: While you should be careful when using it, retinol is truly an anti-aging powerhouse. It can smooth and even out your skin in two to four weeks with prescription formulas and six to 12 with over-the-counter options. “There are really lots of formulations, but I would recommend sticking to the reputable and well-known brands,” says Day. “There’s pretty much a retinol out there for everyone.”
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